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On track Safety: Helmets, HANS devices, & Harnesses.
By Kurt Hafer, MD

 

Helmets:

As an MD, I see what happens to people who do stupid things without protection or just happen to be in the wrong place at the wrong time. A single Emergency Room visit is likely to cost more than $300, so PLEASE buy a good helmet for $200-300 and save your head!

On the other hand, if you have a $100 head, then wear that $100 helmet.

Helmets can meet all sorts of standards (DOT, CPSC, ANSI, & Snell). The Snell tests are BY FAR the toughest. Snell tests & certifies helmets for just about every sport you can think of--auto racing, bicycling, horseback riding, snowboarding, etc. If a helmet passes their tests, it will have a Snell sticker inside of it or a Snell label sewn into the chin strap.

For what we think of as "auto racing" helmets, the toughest current standard is Snell SA2005. Though many of the extensive Snell tests for the SA2005 (SA=special application, meaning car or kart) and

M2005 (M=motorcycle) helmets are similar, there are important differences. SA2005 helmets must have a flame retardant liner (usually Nomex), and it must pass 3 different "roll-bar anvil" tests, and is allowed to have smaller fields of vision thru the eye-ports.

M2005 helmets are not tested for roll-bar impact tests for obvious reasons. Don't get me started on how dangerous it is to have an UN-PADDED roll-bar or cage in your car that your bare head can crash into if you were to have an accident on the street.

So why can SA2005 helmets cost $200 or $2000+?

Marketing hype, materials used, and development costs.

If you need a light helmet handmade to *your* skull specs of carbon fiber/kevlar composite that resists lift at 240mph in an open cockpit F1 car, open your wallet. For most of us, the mass-produced SA2005 certified G-Force, Bell, Bieffe, Simpson, Shoei, Sparco, Pyrotect, etc will work just fine IF THEY FIT PROPERLY. I think full face helmets offer significant advantages in lower face protection too.

Try on a bunch of helmets. Like shoes, helmets are made on different molds, which may or may not be the same shape as your head. Ideally, you want as tight a fit as possible without causing a headache. Wear a helmet around for 15-30 minutes to make sure it doesn't give you a headache. My helmet fits fine when my hair is short, but gets a bit snug when I'm shaggy.

I like the Bell M2, as it has a large eye-port, and is "only" $300. Note: Bell changed their sizing scheme with the SA2000 helmets, so you need to try them on for fit, as the new sizes don't correspond to their older helmets.

Finally, it is advised you replace your helmet every 5 years. The glues, resins, straps, etc slowly degrade over time (probably faster if the helmet is stored in a hot attic or garage vs a cold basement), and helmet standards and technology can change significantly in 5 years. You are also advised to replace a helmet after ANY impact. Many companies want the helmet back to inspect for damage, and may even cut you a deal on a

replacement helmet. Divide $300 by 5 years and you

have $60/year for helmet costs. That's cheap insurance to protect your head. If you shop around, you might still find new SA2000 helmets on closeout as they change color schemes, specs, etc.

Head and Neck Devices:

One issue that has not been answered is which of the variety of neck support systems available (HANS, R3, Hutchens II, D-Cel, G-Force SRS-1, Isaac Device, Tucker Helmet Harness, Wright Device Pro,

etc) is best. They all help reduce neck injuries in certain types of crashes, but as far as I know, there have not been any head to head comparisons of the various systems. These systems are now mandated in by many motor sports sanctioning bodies, with many specifically mentioning the HANS device as their preferred choice, likely because it has been used the most. Only the HANS, R3, and Hutchens II are currently SFI 38.1 approved for a 70G crash. These three systems run $750 and up. The main difference between them is that the HANS device is held in place on the driver by the harness shoulder belts. The R3 and Hutchens II systems are held in place by their own straps, meaning they can be used in a vehicle that lacks a true racing harness system (like a street car with OEM seat belts). The jury is still out on whether the HANS device is truly superior to its competitors.

Finally, while we're talking safety, a note about harnesses. Studies have shown that harness webbing strength can drop by 50% in as little as 2 years.

That's why all the major racing bodies require replacement every 2 years. There are some new polyester webbing materials now available that may degrade less, and may need less frequent replacement.

Also, with some harness systems, it is cheaper to send them back to the manufacturer for re-webbing, rather than buy a completely new set.

To work properly, harnesses must be mounted and worn properly. Shoulder straps should NOT be attached to the floor behind the seats, as this exerts compression on your spine in an impact. If not mounted to stock mounting points or a roll-bar, belt mounting points MUST be reinforced. Belts should be worn TIGHTLY at all times, and fit snug across your pelvis, ideally with a crotch strap. The crotch strap isn't to keep you from sliding forward "under the belts", but is meant to keep your waist belt across your hips, instead of rising up across your abdomen, where it could cause significant internal injuries.

Finally, make sure your seat is securely fastened to the car with reinforced mounting plates. All of the safety item work together, and you protection is only as good as the weakest link. A helmet, HANS device, and racing harness may not be effective if your driver's seat has ripped out of the car floor upon impact, and is now pummeling you against a roll bar.

May you never need to test your helmet, HANS device, or your harness.

This site last updated Thursday, November 19, 2009