Engine Choices - 510
Estimated performance page is
HERE Engine : Nissan L20B (2.0L, SOHC, 4cyl) RATINGS :
Pretty much the standard swap into the PL510. There are a few good reasons : 1) The L20B was the standard powerplant in most Datsuns from 1975-1980, so there is a good supply. 2) For most 510's, the only modifications required is to swap the L20B pan & pickup for the 510 pan and pickup tube, using a lower profile air cleaner, and usually an exhaust modification due to the fact the L20B is 3/4" taller than the L16, so the exhaust my rub the footwell slightly. This mod is EAST for exhaust shops, and can usually be done for $25. 3) The power increase is about 30hp over the stock L16, with a significant increase in torque, so driveability is increased, as well. The engine block is slightly taller, but the weight gain is insignificant. The 510 transmission also bolts right up. Typical cost of a complete running L20B can be as low as $150, with $350 being more common. No special tools necessary, and it can easily be accomplished in one day. 20% displacement increase for well under $500? Not too shabby. Engine : Nissan LZ22 w/ L20B head(2.2L, SOHC, 4cyl) RATINGS :
This swap uses an LZ22 motor (2.2L motor which normally has a NAPS-Z -smog- head), with the head from a L20B replacing the NAPS head. This head has higher power potential, and also raises compression slightly. The LZ22 block is dimensionally similar to the L20B block, but has a bigger bore. In fact, the actual swap into the 510 is no different than the L20B, but the motor needs a few L20B parts to work with the old-style head. The higher cost comes from 1) This motor being produced for only two years, but mostly 2) Due to the fact you have to use parts from two motors to make one. Again, the 510 trannies bolt right up, although most people who upgrade to the L20B or LZ22 upgrade to a 5-speed at about the same time. Engine
: Nissan KA24E (2.4L, SOHC, 4cyl) RATINGS :
KA24E Install article (John Roper) - link to fiveoneoh.net Stats from our KA-24 swap. Cost of engine and
trans-$750.00. Trans not absolutely necessary. We had already switched to F.I. so not much
was needed for the swap. If someone else did this swap and had carbs, substantial cost
would be incurred to add F.I. pump, harness, ECU, air flow meter,etc. If they ran carbs
they would still need to purchase a manifold. Ease of swap, my opinion, is probably a 2 or
3. Not much fabrication needed and size of engine approximately the same as L-series. Submitted by Bill Kenyon Engine : Nissan Z18ET (1.8L, SOHC, 4cyl turbo) RATINGS :
COMMENTS : "The Z18et is a relatively easy swap. Mine is in on modified 510 mounts. It'll bolt to an L series trans too, although the tranny will be a little twisted as the motor needs to be put in upright. I'm in the middle of swapping my bell housing to a naps z one. I'll post the outcome. Cost is the best part! I've bought 3 of these things, paid $300.00 each! (one I sold and the other I'm building up forged, balanced, etc) The real expense comes in the management system. I went the expensive route. But I'm sure it'd be pretty easy to run it with a c18et (from a 200 sx turbo) ECU and a custom harness. I didn't want that pesky airflow meter so I went with Haltech." Submitted by Jake Engine : Mazda Rotary - 13B (1.3L Rotary) RATINGS :
COMMENTS : "Sure, it looks easy, but here are a few problem areas. 1. The exhaust is on the wrong side, and extremely hot. (up to 1800 degrees) This makes moving all brake and fuel lines necessary. 2. The engine is front mounted. Blow off the original mounts (they'll interfere with the exhaust) and weld in a new, dropped cross member in front of the original. 3. Something has to give, either the firewall or the shifter location. Much easier to move the shifter forward. (I now have 50/50 weight distribution. Dumb luck!) 4. Besides a radiator with the hoses both on the same side, you have to add an oil cooler, which really won't fit well anywhere. 5. No factory oil pan (RX2,3,4,or 7) will fit well, so a custom reversed pick-up and pan with a shallow sump and swollen sides is necessary. Sure, it all sounds easy, and I could do it again quite easily now, but anybody who is gonna try it solo like I did will be wishing they had never started. Bryan Feldman (http://www.bryanf.com ) has written extensively about his many rotary swaps, but mine is quite simple compared to the major surgery he does to mount the engine to the original cross member. Shifter location was the major factor in where my engine would sit, and I have an installation that looks nearly factory original. Bryan's goal was to get maximum engine set-back. So much so that most of the engine is actually behind the original firewall location. Takes a talented welder to pull that off and make it all work again. Drop me a line if you need any more details. " Submitted by Chuck Rothfuss Engine : RWD SR20DE / DET
Not much information available at this time.
Here's a link with some general SR20DET swap information : Engine : Nissan VG30E (3.0L SOHC V6) Ratings:
This is becoming a common swap for 510 guys. With VG30E's plentiful and inexpensive in wrecking yards, I know of swaps completed for well under $750! Engine
: Nissan VG30DE (3.0L DOHC, V6) RATINGS :
As if you didn't see this one coming? You can read about this swap elsewhere on this site. I chose this engine because I wanted the most factory HP I could swap in. My theory is it's cheaper to buy and drop in 220+hp than to build a lower factory rated (VG30E, for example) engine and build it to 220hp.
Engine
: Nissan VG30DETT (3.0L DOHC, V6) The issues of going from VG30DE to DETT are almost as numerous as going from L20B --> VG30DE -Dave |
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